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This Is The Answer To Rid Yourself And Your Scooter Of *Clutch Jerking Syndrome* Inherent to HD's

By Frank Balogh

Okay Harley owners, think about what happens when you're sitting at a light with your scoot in first gear and your clutch pulled in. That's right, you get pulled through the light with a jerking motion. Usually.

One way around this typical Harley clutch problem is to leave your scoot in neutral while at a stop.

Another method of relieving yourself, and bike, of the jerk syndrome is to install *The Tamer* manufactured by Brown-Simon IPM out of Ohio.

The function fo the *Tamer* is to hold the clutch hub sprocket in the proper location which keeps it from moving in and out when the clutch is disengaged. This unit was designed to compensate for the misdesign of Harley Davidson in 1936 when they designed the clutch system. The staggered rollers Harley uses on the clutch hub allow the hub to oscilate in and out causing the clutch to engage slightly during disengagement, therefore causing the jerking motion. The *Tamer's* Nylatron ring with it's aluminum backing plate acts as a thrust washer giving your clutch the correct clearance and tolerance neened to achieve near perfect operation.

The *Tamer* unit installs behind the clutch pack which requires removal of the clutch and then re-installment of the clutch with the normal Harley adjustments. Approximate life of the *Tamers* nylatron thrust ring is 40,000 miles, which at this point you will notice the jerking return. So in essence all you have to do is replace the thrust ring approximately every 40,000 miles to retain the *Tamers* charm, not the entire unit.

After installation of a *Tamer* unit you will encounter a much smoother shifting scooter. You can pull in the clutch, drop it in first, and you won't feel or hear the normal clunk of the tranny and clutch engaging.

Application of the *Tamer* is for all Harley big twins through 1984, stock primary drive units or with belt drive units.

1. After removing the primary cover and the clutch assembly install the *Tamer* unit [without included shims]. Discard the hub nut lock washer and bearing plate ring. They are not needed with the *Tamer* application.
2. Check between the *Tamers* nylatron thrust ring and aluminum backing plate. Clearance should be .010 to .015 for best possible performance after hub nut is tightened. Add the included shims between *Tamers* aluminum spool and aluminum ring if loose. Add shims between *Tamers* aluminum spool and clutch hub is too tight. Check clearance after shim addition. tamer

3. After correct clearance is achieved reinstall your clutch pack in the normal manner. Keep in mind that for stock chain primary application you must add the included extra steel clutch plate before installing the clutch pack.
4. Now adjust your clutch to proper spring tension which is 11/32" from shoulder of spring collar to pressure plate. The only thing left to do is bolt your primary back on [preferably with a new gasket], start up and go for a ride. That's it.

I know for a fact that this product works wonders for my BB. Been using it for years and other than replacing the thrust ring have never had problems. There is no damn way I'd go back to my stock clutch setup after running this product. The Tamer fits all big twins from 1936 to early 1984, there is also now a Tamer for Sportster models from 1971 to early 1984. Custom Chrome lists them for the big twins at $56.95. Money well spent in my book. Try it you'll like it.

****MURPHY'S LAW****